Memorial to the Blue-eyed Samurai by Ms. Greer
When I first moved to Japan in 2010, I bought the book Shogun, by James Clavell. I enjoy reading novels where I have actually been to the places mentioned, however , I did not know Japan well enough to make many connections. What this novel did do, though, was introduce me to a history of my new home through a vivid story about a character named John Blackthorne an anjin (pilot) who shipwrecks in Japan in the late 1500's. The story captivated me, and as I was reading it at school, my principal told me that the character was modeled off of the English pilot, William Adams, who was given a fief here in the Yokosuka area. In fact, just two train stops from Yokosuka's Shioiri station is Anjinzuka Station named for the pilot William Adams, who was reinvented into Miura Anjin by the Shogun, Takugawa. For years I've had this on my to-see list, but just hadn't made the trek.
October in Yokosuka is probably my favorite month. Not too hot and not too cold. Just right. So I decided to venture to this spot to see what it was about. Other websites will tell you it's a twenty minute walk from Anjinzuka station to Tsukayama Park. In fact, that's what Googlemaps also says, but I have a different story. Sure it's a twenty minute walk if you're a Japanese businessman running for twenty minutes to catch the train, but if you want to leisurely walk to the park, give yourself at least thirty minutes. The hills are steep, the forest near the road thick, and a few little gems to stop and talk about (while catching ones breath). For instance, I have never seen so many spiders so I stopped to look!
The Anjinzuka path is paved, in fact it's a road with cars barreling up and down. They are indeed barreling because it requires horsepower to get up that hill, and it requires careful driving to make your way safely down. Those drivers are also hoping to avoid hitting the random pedestrians who are walking through the area. The walk itself is interesting because you see the most unique Japanese homes and pass a temple with monks chanting. As you get higher up on the hill nearing the park, the scents shift, alerting you that you're someplace rustic. We passed patches of tomatoes, flowers, and plenty of vines.
When you finally arrive at the park, out of breath, you have a few wandering options. It was a cloudy day when I visited the overlook, but I can imagine that it would be an amazing view on a clear day. It is said that Will Adams loved to stand at the overlook and view the sea, port and cities.
Once you've had your fill of the view, follow the path straight behind you for about 2 minutes and you'll see a stairwell directing you to the memorial. If you miss it, you can ask, "Will Adams no kinenhi as dodko des ka?" (Where is the Will Adams memorial?)
Will Adams was married and had a family in England, but he was never able to return to them. He married a Japanese woman, Oyuki, who was a daughter of a prominent samurai. Adams created a new life in Japan. While the memorial claims it is his grave, William Adams actually died in Nagasaki. The memorial was built on his fief of Hemi which is in present day Yokosuka. There are festivals during the sakura (cherry blossom) season in April.
I recommend this little trek to any history buff or hiker. It is an interesting story, and the climb was scenic. The park was filled with benches and there was even a local sharing melodies on his saxophone in the square. On our way down, we took the alternate path towards Hemi Station which proved to reveal more gems in the form of houses, shops, and vending machines. However, this path required more turns. Although I followed my google map on my iPhone, I did find myself asking, "Hemi eki wa doko desu ka?" (Where is Hemi Station?)
When you finally arrive at the park, out of breath, you have a few wandering options. It was a cloudy day when I visited the overlook, but I can imagine that it would be an amazing view on a clear day. It is said that Will Adams loved to stand at the overlook and view the sea, port and cities.
Once you've had your fill of the view, follow the path straight behind you for about 2 minutes and you'll see a stairwell directing you to the memorial. If you miss it, you can ask, "Will Adams no kinenhi as dodko des ka?" (Where is the Will Adams memorial?)
Will Adams was married and had a family in England, but he was never able to return to them. He married a Japanese woman, Oyuki, who was a daughter of a prominent samurai. Adams created a new life in Japan. While the memorial claims it is his grave, William Adams actually died in Nagasaki. The memorial was built on his fief of Hemi which is in present day Yokosuka. There are festivals during the sakura (cherry blossom) season in April.
I recommend this little trek to any history buff or hiker. It is an interesting story, and the climb was scenic. The park was filled with benches and there was even a local sharing melodies on his saxophone in the square. On our way down, we took the alternate path towards Hemi Station which proved to reveal more gems in the form of houses, shops, and vending machines. However, this path required more turns. Although I followed my google map on my iPhone, I did find myself asking, "Hemi eki wa doko desu ka?" (Where is Hemi Station?)